Enchanted by Ireland — Part 1: Dublin

by Nick on April 6, 2010

The day I decided to apply for my program in Spain was the same day I promised myself that, if I got in, I would travel to Ireland.

More than one year later, I was delighted to make good on that promise.

Ireland has always fascinated me. Like many Americans, I have roots in Ireland (my mother’s maiden name is Powers). Beyond that, Ireland has a timeless and almost mythical beauty (example: Giant’s Causeway) to accompany its colorful and potent history (example: The Red Hand of Ulster).

So, last Monday I set off on my 13-hour journey (bus > metro > plane > bus > taxi) that got me to Dublin just in time to meet my cousin Wendy for dinner. She is a resident of Ireland (and now a dual citizen) of more than 10 years, and she works for the Irish parliament and intends to study law. Needless to say that, along with having a great chat over dinner, she was an endless resource of tourism suggestions and historical insight.

Tuesday, I was up bright and early for my one full day in the city, determined to make the most of it despite the uncooperative weather.

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The General Post Office was the site of the 1916 Easter Rising. Damage to the building was extensive, and it was rebuilt years later. However, the original columns out front still showcase bullet holes from the assault.

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My favorite statue hands down was of Jim Larkin, who organized one of the most successful labor movements in Irish History.

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All of the street signs were in both English and Gaelic.

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The naturally preserved mummies in the crypt underneath St. Michan’s Church include an 800-year-old crusader. I was the only one on the tour (perhaps no surprise on a rainy Tuesday morning), and the guide convinced me to shake the mummy’s hand for good luck.

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Around the corner from St. Michan’s is the original Bow Street Jameson Whiskey Distillery, established in 1790. Today, the whiskey is brewed in Cork.

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Powers Whisky (brewed by my distant family perhaps?) is owned by the same company as Jameson.

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The house at 15 Usher’s Island was the setting for The Dead, perhaps the most well-known short story written by the surely brilliant but largely incomprehensible James Joyce.

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Kilmainham Jail housed the rebel prisoners (and sometimes their executions) from the many attempted rebellions between its construction in 1796 and its retirement in 1924. It was also the place of almost unspeakable tragedies during the famine.

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However, messages of hope and promise were as prominent as memories of sadness in the great city of Dublin.

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On Tuesday night, I met up with my college friend and fraternity brother Armin to have dinner with his family and celebrate his 29th birthday. Great end to an eventful day in Dublin.

On Wednesday morning, I hopped a bus to Belfast in Northern Ireland to meet my friend Aislinn (Belfast native and English teacher in a nearby Spanish town) and her family. I was there twice as long, and as a result, it was at least twice as awe-inspiring. Can’t wait to tell you all about it in Part 2.

For now, it’s time to plan some classes! Talk to you soon.

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