The only consistent force this week has been change — from the roaring metropolis of Madrid to the humming ancient town of Cáceres to the whispering pueblo of Herrera del Duque.
Six months in the making, I have finally arrived in my hometown in Spain. As you can probably guess, I’m thrilled.
So, let’s start from the beginning.
My last days in Madrid were spent like the others, with a daily itinerary that included
- Drinking coffee
- Pouring over Spanish newspapers — usually El Páis, where my favorite topics included the Spanish national basketball team, Madrid’s favorite soccer team and Obama’s reported success at the UN pushing nuclear nonproliferation. The reporting of this was quite favorable in Spain’s more liberal paper (El Mundo being widely regarded as the country’s more conservative news source).
- Wandering the streets of Madrid
- Reading The New Spaniards by John Hooper — Highly recommended for anyone with even a passing interest in Spain’s transition from a right-wing dictatorship to a left-leaning, almost socialist-infused, democracy, which took place at the speed of sound from 1975 through today.
Every day started here, at the bus stop in Torrelodones.
Most of the above took place at locations like this one, a café called Manolo near the Moncloa bus station in Madrid.
A few shots from my wandering include:
A pass by the Reina Sofia, Madrid’s most famous contemporary art museum.
A quick stop by a women’s rights gathering (any such peaceful demonstration could have resulted in arrests, fines and imprisonments as recently as the early 70s).
A visit to Atocha, the city’s big train station, to pick up my ticket to Cáceres.
Several trips up and down these odd inclined passages (not exactly an escalator, but more than a moving walkway).
I left Madrid for Cáceres on Monday. The trip started on a Cercania (short-distance train) from Torrelodones to the Atocha train station.
Although the public transportation in Madrid and much of Spain is outstanding, things are not always what they seem. I hopped a train to Guadalajara.
Saw this encouraging sign along the way.
There’s a language lesson at every turn.
The back of this Cercania ticket tells me to “keep this until your exit.”
True to its word, you cannot leave the station without it.
Headed in the right direction.
The sun sets as we leave Madrid.
Buildings become more sparse…
…and soon there is nothing but the reflection of my camera in the window.
Upon arrival in Cáceres, I decided to make the hike to my hostel (about a mile) rather than get a taxi. I finally arrive on the scene at midnight and check in.
That was about the moment that I realized I was – at least for the time being – alone.
Cáceres turned out to be a historic, yet rather lively place.
Monuments and buildings celebrate kings and conquistadors from eras past.
Signage was much appreciated.
University students were preparing to begin class. Little did I know that this gathering was the start of a two-day hazing session for the freshman.
By the second day, it was less hazing and more of a general street-stomping party. This crowd asked the construction guys to pour buckets of water on them.
And got what they requested.
I was surprised to see what I judged to be some rather tropical (or at least sea-side) vegetation.
These trees were right next to the local bull ring.
After a couple of days flying solo, I met up with the 20 or so fellow teachers staying at this location, and later connected with the 100-plus people that comprised our group.
Caught a few shots of the countryside as we traveled around.
Concluded the orientation with a group gathering and a meet-up with the professors from our Spanish hometowns.
This was the moment of truth where I connected with Pablo, Herrera del Duque´s primary language professor. It was, after a long wait, my first real connection with my new home. Although tired from his early morning and two-hour drive to Caceres, he was friendly and had lots of great information to share about the pueblo and its people. I got precious few pictures on our drive to Herrera, hoping to spend most of the time learning from Pablo.
Upon our arrival in town, we immediately began hunting for an apartment. I explained that, ideally, I would love to have a roommate from the town. I’m convinced this will lead to a faster orientation, better learning and cheaper rent. However, if that’s not possible, we did check out a flat easily big enough for three with a balcony view of the castle for a grand total of €150/month (approx $225). So, one way or another, Ill be fine in the housing department.
I´ve got the weekend to become oriented with Herrera, and work begings Monday. Plenty more to come in the days ahead, including an introduction to the place I´ll call home.
{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }
Did the ‘Torrelodones’ signs remind you of me?
Looks awesome over there! I hope you’re enjoying your hometown.
the comment that you felt alone killed me Nick. Praying for lots of new friends.
Miss you at Lovell – big time.
Ha, not to worry, Jess! Orientation was great, and new amigos abound already here in my friendly little town. I miss you all big time, too. My parents are shipping me my Lovell “Adios Nick” photo to hang up in the new apartment I´m about to rent.
Thanks indeed for your prayers. As I write this, I´m sitting at school for my first day of work. Kids everywhere. Yikes!
Hello Nick, Searching the net for information of my genealogy I came across your move and your website. Please allow me to share a little information. My family came from this area in Spain in the 1500′s. My family settled in what was declared the NEW Spain, what today is known as New Mexico and southern Colorado. This of course before Mexico and the United States. Could you help me out with some research while you are there? My family would be very grateful.
Respectfully,
George Herrera